La Cholla Landscaping Blog

January 16, 2010

Landscape Design

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La Cholla LogoMany desert dwellers don’t realize how easy it is to have a beautiful landscape without water-thirsty grass, trees and shrubs. Many times they opt for a rock and cactus garden – or worse, no landscaping at all. But you don’t need to use a lot of water to achieve an attractive landscape and you don’t need to spend your weekends pruning and mowing. Here are a few tips for a beautiful, low maintenance, low-water use landscape from Maggie with Sweetwater Landscape Design.
Select plants that are appropriate for your neighborhood.
There is a wide variety of gorgeous landscaping plants that will heartily stand up to our blazing summers and freezing winter nights. It’s easy to find plants that are drought tolerant in Tucson. The challenge is in finding plants that won’t freeze in the winter time. Depending on where you live in town, you’ll need to make sure that your plantings can stand the low winter temperatures. It seems counterintuitive, but many low-lying areas in town – such as areas around washes – get especially cold on freezing winter nights. And many plants that seem to thrive in other parts of town just won’t be able to take below-freezing temperatures in these areas. So keep that in mind when choosing plants. Find a nursery that’s close to your home. Local nurseries often have staff on hand to answer questions and help you choose the plants that are just right for your neighborhood.
Here are some of my favorite low-water use plants that do well in the desert, are heat and cold tolerant, and will give you plenty of foliage and color.
Trees – Sweet Acacia, Shoestring Acacia, Palo Blanco, Desert Museum Palo Verde, Desert Willow, Texas Honey Mesquite, Palo Brea.
Shrubs – Wooly Butterfly Bush, Pink Fairy Duster, Little Leaf Cordia, Hopbush, Turpentine Bush, Texas Ranger, Green Feathery Senna, Mexican Bird of Paradise.
Vines – Lilac Vine, Cat Claw Vine, Carolina Jasmine.
Cacti and Succulents – Purple Prickly Pear, Golden Barrel Cactus, Parry’s Agave, Octopus Agave, Weber’s Agave, Yellow Bulbine, Grass Tree, Candelilla, Giant Hesperaloe, Bear Grass
Grasses (careful to only plant non-invasive grasses) – Regal Mist, Deer Grass,
Ground Cover – Trailing Acacia, Gopher Plant, Trailing Rosemary, Gazania, Mexican Primrose.
Perennials – Desert Marigold, all varieties of Penstamon, Paperflower, Chaparral Sage, Globe Mallow, Autumn Sage (salvia greggii)
Install an irrigation system.
Even if you’re planting low- or no-water use plants, a good multi-zone irrigation system is a must in the desert. A few scorching hot days without rain or water can kill off even the most drought tolerant plants. You spend a lot of money and time installing a great landscape – think of irrigation as a relatively low cost way to protect that investment. Believe it or not, a drip irrigation system is the most efficient way to water your landscape. A slow drip will water your plants more deeply and minimize evaporation compared to watering with a hose. Also, an irrigation system allows you to control exactly how much water your plants are receiving and make adjustments based on the time of year: less water in the winter, more in the summer, less during the monsoon season. It’s tempting to turn your drip system off in the winter, but it’s important to keep watering during the cold months. Most plants go dormant in the winter, but their root systems continue to grow. Watering in the winter will give you more growth in the spring and will help your plants fend off frost damage.
Think about color
Even if you’ve got a super low-water use rock-and-cactus landscape, you can add lush pops of color with well-planted pots of flowers. Mix tall, spiky shapes (like a Fortnight Lily) with bursts of color (like salvia greggii) and a trailing vine to spill over the edge of your pot (try Asparagus Fern or Sweet Potato Vine.) And if you like to putter, pots give you the opportunity to change out your flowers with the change in season. Ask your neighborhood nursery about which flowers grow well in which season. Begin planting now for fall and winter.
When choosing flowers, consider which colors go best together. Check out a color wheel – you can find them easily on the internet – and group flowers with complimentary colors (those that are across from each other on the color wheel, such as yellow and purple) or “analogous” colors (those that are next to each other on the color wheel, like yellow and orange). And keep in mind that flowers aren’t the only plants that provide great color! Sweet potato vines, for example, come in beautiful bright green and deep purple shades.
Consider artificial grass
The variety of artificial grasses available on the market has grown considerably in recent years, and artificial turf is looking more realistic than ever. The advantages are pretty obvious: Artificial grass is low maintenance (no mowing, over-seeding, or fertilizing,) uses no water, stands up to abuse from kids and pets, and is green year-round.
To find out how Sweetwater Landscape Design can be of service to you, please visit their website at www.sweetwaterlandscapedesign.com.
La Cholla Landscaping is a full service landscape contractor meeting all of your installation, tree and maintenance needs. Because we’re experienced in maintenance as well, we can offer advice on low maintenance type plants. To view any of the above mentioned plants, please visit our website where you’ll find full color photos with all of the information you’ll need to know about potential plants. You’ll even find seasonal watering guidelines.
La Cholla Landscaping
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www.landscapingintucson.com

La Cholla Landscaping

January 15, 2010

Protecting Your Trees

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La Cholla Landscaping

La Cholla Landscaping

You know you’re living in the desert southwest during the hottest time of the year when you hear the weather man say, “We’ll be cooling down a bit this week. Instead of 110 degrees, we’ll be looking at temperatures around 105 and 106 degrees.” Of course, as we progress further into the summer, there is a phenomenon knocking at our front door…sometimes literally. It’s called monsoon season. While it has the potential to deliver half of our annual rainfall during this 3 month period, it can also bring enough force to damage even the most mature of trees.

 During this time of year, I can drive through almost any community the day after a major rain storm and find a tree that either has damaged limbs or has been uprooted. While the price of the largest tree available from a nursery can be as much as $4,000, many of the trees toppled over are 2-3 times that size. If you do the math, you’ll realize the dollar value of your tree.

 Here are a few recommendations that can strengthen your tree’s root system, adding years to its life.

 1) Where are the irrigation drip heads positioned? Drip heads should be placed at the outer canopy to encourage the roots to grow stronger and further away. This results in a wider, stronger base, providing much more stability during wind storms.

 2) What are you trying to achieve when watering your plants? The real objective is to water your trees to a depth of 24”-36” (typical tree root zone depth). For most trees that utilize drip heads, a watering schedule of 5-7 days per week for 30-45 minutes will not achieve this. Desert adapted trees can be watered as infrequent as every 7-21 days. It is the size and quantity of drip heads that influence how long it takes for each watering to percolate through the soil to reach the entire root zone. One method of determining if your tree has a weak root system is to grab its trunk (at normal shoulder height) and try moving the tree back and forth. If you notice the ground at the base of the trunk moving, this is an indication that your tree has not developed a strong root system.

 3) How does your tree look? Is it heavier on one side (out of balance)? How dense is the canopy? When you try looking upward through your tree, do you see a multitude of dense, intertwined branches with very little light passing through? Are there any branches that are so heavy that they are being weighed down? If any one of these conditions applies, your tree can be susceptible to being blown over. Keep in mind however that you should have no more than approximately 15% of the tree removed at one time. If the tree is over pruned, it can expose the trunk and branches to sun burn.

Many of the desert adapted trees can be pruned as infrequent as twice yearly if done properly. If you need the assistance of a professional, be sure to ask for proof of liability insurance (in case a falling limb causes damage to your house or fence) as well as workman’s compensation that protects your property from being liable if a worker is injured.

Winter Frost Damage

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La Cholla Landscaping

La Cholla Landscaping

With an average of 300 days of sunshine, southern Arizona is a region for beautiful landscapes year round. But what happens when your evergreen shrub appears partially dead after sub-freezing temperatures? What about the plants in your yard that have dried and shriveled up completely?

Many people have asked me, “My plants are dying. What should I do?” Before you reach for your gardening tools, consider the expertise of Jack Kelly, Commercial Horticulture Agent with the Pima County Cooperative Extension.

Anytime we have a hard freeze like we did in December of 2006, you can reasonably expect plant damage to occur. If the freeze is particularly cold (less than 20 degrees F), and is long (more than 8 hours), many plants will freeze back. For citrus trees, damage may extend in to the last two years worth of growth. For other plants such as Bougainvillea and Lantana, freeze damage can occur all the way to the ground. Trees as well as Palms are susceptible to being damaged by freezing temperatures. However, while most trees will begin to recover in late March or early April, Palms will generally begin their recovery process once temperatures have reached 90 – 100 degrees during the daytime.

The general consensus amongst professionals in the field is to wait until spring to observe if and where the new buds will appear. Sure you can do a scratch test to look for green beneath the bark. But, even if there is no life to be found, you may still be surprised where re-growth will occur once the temperatures are warmer. Even if you find dead branches, you should not remove it until winter has passed. If there are any sub-freezing temperatures remaining in the forecast, the dead wood can serve as insulation to protect the plant from further damage.

If you find yourself terribly disappointed with the appearance of your landscape and you are considering in replacing the plants with replicas, think again. These probably offered your landscape a lush variety of greenery and vibrant blooms for nine months out of the year. Do yourself a favor, save yourself the money (especially after Christmas spending), and wait to see if it is capable of re-growth. Besides, you’ll only be starting all over again with immature sized plants.

If you are interested in obtaining more information regarding ideas for replacement plants or anything else regarding your landscaping needs (if you live in an association, we can provide you with more information regarding the approved plants in your neighborhood), please feel free to contact us.

Plants That Are Less Susceptible To Freeze Damage:
Texas Ranger, Oleander, Hopseed Bush, Leatherleaf Acacia, Feathery Cassia, Desert Spoon, Creosote Bush, Willow Leaf Acacia. If you would like more information regarding plants that interest you, please contact us through our website below.

January 2, 2010

Going Green in Your Landscape

La Cholla Landscaping

Three or four months ago I began noticing a new idea on television. If you watch the news on NBC, you’ll know what I am referring to. It’s the idea to “Go Green”. Sure, the concept of going green has existed for decades…”Recycle, Reuse.” However, in a time when we’re paying double or more for the price of gas then we did last decade, the initiative is bound to resonate in the minds of consumers. Don’t worry, I’m not about to lecture you on the need to ride your bike to work when it’s 100 degrees outside. Instead, I intend to give you a few ideas on “Going Green To Save Green” in your landscape environment. If you do your own landscape maintenance, these few ideas will cut down on the frequency and time required for upkeep. If you hire someone to maintain your yard, you’ll save money by cutting down on how often they trim your plants or remove your weeds. The key factor is how you water your landscape.
The type of irrigation that exists in your yard and how it is used can affect more things then you realize. First of all, if you are not using an automated irrigation system (one that has a programmable timer), then you must be watering your plants manually. You may be watering with a garden hose or manually turning on a drip irrigation system that does not have a timer. The major problem associated with this method is the need to remember on a regular basis as well as not forgetting to shut it off. Either method can result in over-watering and/or runoff.
Over-watering will have its share consequences. Firstly, over-watering on a regular basis can lead to plant disease and/or weak root systems. Secondly, runoff equates to watering where it isn’t needed. Not only does this translate into wasted water but, it will encourage weed growth. Watering weeds demands more time on the weekend to remove them (not to mention the cost of weed killing solutions) or having to pay your landscaper to work more frequently in your yard. If you are watering with a garden hose, you may be applying the water at a faster rate than can be absorbed. This prevents enough water to penetrate the entire root zone. Plants being watered using this method will tend to have shallower roots. Shallow roots can be over stressed during a hot, dry spell. Over time, your plants life span will be shortened dramatically. A shortened life span means money spent on replacement plants. Thirdly, over-watering can lead to your plants growing at a faster rate requiring them to be trimmed more frequently than if they were on a timed schedule appropriate to the need they have.
If installing an automated irrigation system is not an option at this moment in time for you, then consider the following suggestions to maximizing the potential from watering your plants manually. Create berms (dirt mound 2-3 inches high) that surround each plant. You can easily fill these natural bowls to capacity using a garden hose. This will allow the ground to absorb the water at its own pace. This will keep you from having to stand in front of each plant with the water trickling out of your hose, waiting for the water to be absorbed. If you have a drip system without a timer, creating berms can help prevent runoff (especially if your plants are on a slope) if you forget to shut it off. Secondly, you should aerate the dirt surrounding your plant. Aerate is just a fancy word for loosening up the soil so that the water can penetrate easier. If you have hard soil surrounding your plants, you can use a shovel, pick axe or a cultivator. Use caution that you do not damage the roots closest to the surface. Thirdly, consider applying mulch and/or gravel (more than likely you already have gravel as a part of your landscape) around the base of your plant. This will help keep the roots cooler by retaining moisture, minimizing water loss due to evaporation. Gravel can also help minimize runoff. Finally, consider setting the alarm clock on your cellular phone or kitchen stove clock if you leave your watering unattended.
It is easy to overlook how short our water supply is in the desert southwest considering we have no restrictions imposed upon our usage. With an average of only 12 inches of rain, there is not an abundant supply. However, if this fact is a difficult one to change your habits of water usage, remind yourself of the immediate consequences of demanding time and/or money to maintain your landscape due to not having an automated irrigation system.

December 10, 2009

Hiring The Right Contractor

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LaChollaLandC68a-A03aT03a-ZIf you are considering in hiring a company for a home improvement project (landscaping, painting, flooring, kitchen/bathroom remodeling, etc.), there are two basic concepts that you’ll want to keep in mind.

First and foremost, you must educate yourself. Gathering information about the potential company is extremely important during the interview phase. One item of importance is to identify if they are licensed contractors? You can easily check the validity of a contractor’s license by visiting the Arizona Registrar of Contractor’s website at www.azroc.gov. Their website states, “A contractor must be licensed to legally perform jobs that require a building permit or when labor and materials for the project cost $1,000 or more.” If you hire a licensed contractor that completes the work with poor workmanship or simply fails to complete the project, you may recover losses up to $30,000 through the Residential Contractors Recovery Fund. By not hiring a licensed contractor, you revoke this right to protect your costly investment. You may also utilize this stage to interview the company’s representative with regards to industry standards as well as a typical time frame to complete the work. This will allow you to compare knowledge from one contractor to another to identify who may be inconsistent with standard practices. Kim States, Public Affairs Director of the Better Business Bureau in Tucson recommends checking the company’s records with the BBB if any complaints have been recorded and if they were resolved. Finally, do not hesitate to ask for at least two references from recent clients that have had similar work done.

Once you commit to a company, be sure to get everything in writing. A contract has several purposes. One very important aspect is that it should clearly communicate the expectations of the work to be completed. Besides indicating the total cost, a few other items that are typically included in the contract are payment terms, beginning and completion date, and a detailed description of the work. Be sure to clarify the company’s procedures if you request a change in the work once it has already commenced. Keep in mind that if there are any changes to the contract, that you receive another estimate before the additional work has begun. Be sure that the change order clearly documents what will be done. If you feel there is even a slight possibility you may change a portion of the work along the way, do not hesitate to ask that the contract be itemized. If you decide to change a particular aspect, you already know how much should be subtracted from the contract. The written contract is not only intended to prevent a company from taking advantage of you, but to also confirm that your expectations of the scope of work are clearly identified and will be executed. Remember to never be afraid to ask for additional details if there is anything unclear. When in doubt, get it in writing.

Choosing the right contractor for your home improvement project is a major decision. Whether the work totals a few hundred dollars or several thousands of dollars, by applying these concepts, you are more likely to have a successful outcome.

Let us know your past experiences with hiring a contractor! Post it below!

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